Macaroni cheese is my ultimate comfort food. I never make it for myself, as I rarely have milk in the house – and my white sauces are lamentable. And nothing will ever measure up to my mother’s recipe, with a mustardy cheese sauce that you could stand a fork up in, and a thick covering of crunchy breadcrumbs.
So in the spirit of research for the blog, I thought I’d try Heston Blumenthal’s cauliflower truffle macaroni cheese which he’s developed for Waitrose. The celebrity chef has come up with a range of food for the supermarket, including lasagne and shepherd’s pie (both for carnivores), and some side dishes including carrots and mashed potatoes.
The packet said to cook it on the middle shelf for 30 minutes. After 35 minutes on blast furnace setting, it was barely cooked. I can only assume, in keeping with most of Blumenthal’s creations, that it needed to be reheated for 48 hours at gas mark 29, with a welding torch to finish it off …
When it finally slid onto a plate, I spotted two still-crunchy bits of cauliflower cowering in there. And it should be renamed truffle surprise, as I’d be bloody surprised if there was any truffle oil in it. The cheese sauce tasted vaguely of cheese, but was also very watery.
The lingering impression of it was overwhelming blandness – and certainly not worth the £4.89 and the bazillion Slimming World syns it will have cost me.